Travelogue 8 - Trek Naneghat-Jivdhan Fort- February 2-3, 2013

Even before coming to Mumbai I had googled trekking destinations in the vicinity. It was after a year being here and almost three years of last trekking experience; I was about to trek Naneghat and Jivdhan. We started early Saturday morning, reaching Kalyan by local train. From Kalyan, we took the state transport bus heading to Junnar. Bus would drop us at base of Naneghat. We had planned first to trek Naneghat (750 m), a mountain pass in the Western Ghats (near village Vaishakare, Malshej Ghat, Junnar in Pune), by the evening and next day do Jivdhan (1145 meters). Almost half an hour of journey our bus broke down. All my plans seem to be in jeopardy; luckily we managed to get in other bus. Anyways, we reached the post around 2 o’clock, and realised we had forgotten to bring torch and adequate water.

Hill walking is like a meditation cutting yourself off from the city life and immersing in lap of nature. One can contemplate bits and pieces of life, walking up and down the mischievous terrain which is quite similar to that of life. Sometimes, you are following the right trail and one wrong turn disappoints you. At some places, the pinnacle seems just above you, however, after climbing one understands that it was just a mirage, curves of hills playing tricks with you. What you see may not be the best hill offer, but best of your ability at specific moment. As I said hill walking is for me is time for introspection, deliberation and contemplation.

In beginning, I was exhilarated and confident, however, within 20-30 minutes I was breathing heavily, realising no fitness regime and bad life style with age was coming back to me. Even on such an early stage of trek I was dragging myself and promising myself to build up endurance, once back. Due to less rain in Maharashtra this year, the natural habitat was dry and hot with sun on top. Unable to enjoy beautiful views, I was gasping for air. Taking breaks every few minutes with heavy chest and cursing myself, this was proving to be one of the most difficult treks ever, even though I had been to tougher destinations.

In the middle of no-where, over our heads were high voltage power-lines coming from one side of horizon and disappearing into the other side climbing the hill. In a few minutes, we could hear a buzzing sound; first I thought it was chirping of birds, however soon I realized that it was rather sound coming from these wires. I was wondering the extent of exploitation by man to hedge a comfortable life and this irritating constant buzzing sound possibly disturbs birds and animals. In cities, I had not heard the sound of these wires may be due to noise of population and other noise pollution. We were walking in middle of wires running parallel on each side, the noise became a nuisance. Sorry, to write a too much on it, I hated the meddling with nature.

We had finished two water bottles in an hour and half. There was no sign of any other trekker, only faded trails, still air and amazing sight which I was hardly noticing given tiredness. I would have given it up, if we were a larger group or i was alone. Two hours must have passed when we heard human chatter, hopefully not far ahead of us. My friend climb up, it was great relief that they had given us some water and informed a water source was not far. We hurriedly reached there, drank and splashed water on ourselves and started again for top. By the way, we had a taken a longer way doing a round of dried waterfall.

Once I reached Naneghat, it was spectacular panoramic view, I felt relaxed disregarding the gruelling journey. Historically, Naneghat was a used a tollbooth for using the pass between Junnar and Kalyan, and inscription in the cave at top indicates the work of Satavahana rulers and their a powerful woman ruler Naganika mentioning names of gods Yama,  Indra, Chandra and Surya and cute beautiful temple of lord Ganesha in cave.

Strolling through the Naneghat pass and then climbing hills on the side, standing on the cliff and enjoying the tranquil nature and stimulating views, it was dark before I released. I was completely lost in the place. Around 8, we found a house of Santosh Shinde, rather he found us, as we standing in dark guessing what to do. Post dinner at his place and offer to sleep at night, we headed for a late night walk. I ate for first time – home cooked bhakri, nachni with peethla and pejholi.

What followed would hard to forget for long time now. After across the cave, and four man made big water hole, we sat on edge for few hours on a joint. While walking back after few seconds I released something happen. My right leg, slipped in the last water hole, which was way of the symmetrical line of other holes. My foot hit the water, I could remember hearing the sound of splash. My left hip had hit the floor, fortunately left hand got hold of a iron railing outside. Intuitively, I flung myself out of the hole. Within, seconds it all had happend. When I came out I released, that i had fallen and was out too. Friend walking behind me, released it too after I was out. Hip, knee arm and ankle were paining terrible, however we laughing loudly on the way this occurred and how i was came out.

After this unasked for risky adventure, i decide to stay at Santosh’s place for night and see in morning if I can go further. Day two, I woke up early. Sat on hill top and stretched for some time, it was so tranquil I was wishing to live there forever. The breeze was soft, casual and calm. Eyes were absorbing stimulating nature in flawless morning the sun light. I hovered there for hour or so.

Leisurely, walked to Satosh’s home for Marathi breakfast. Around the same time, three guys came in asking for tea. They had climbed after sun, were not sure to go back or do Jhivdhan too. With in no time and short conversation, we all decided to do it together.

Around 9:30, we started for Jivdhan, first headed for other direction to have a look at the small lake near the lodging and then carried on with trek. We had to aim for Khada Parsi (aka Wanar Lingi) (a 130 m high pinnacle) which would help us reach Jivdhan. After some time, we were in small patch for dense jungle. Finally, after losing our way again, struggling, getting help from people at top, we were able to reach to top. On all the sides, we could see ghats and peaks. Btw, here yet again i had small fall between rocks, guiding the way. The place was appealing and .

Once upon a time, there was Shivaji maharaj fort on Jivdhan (3754 ft above sea level); one can only imagine the strength, strategy and valour of Shivaji and his army to make provisions at difficult places. I had read that one can have full panoramic view of peaks - Harishchandragad, Chavaand, Ratangad, Naneghat, Manikdoh Dam and the entire Junnar plateau. However, I was enjoying the site, not knowing one peak from another. We cooked soups at the top and ate Bhakri-thecha packed by Santosh.

After wee hours at top, we started back, on the way back from sides towards Ghatgare village; my shoe cracked negotiating the awfully rough rock patch. We had to slip and crawl our way down. After shoe giving way, I had to carefully manage the steps, lest I slip and fall. Almost around 4 we reached the village, filled water bottled and ran to catch the jeep for Junnar, base town for Shivneri(birth place of one of the greatest king Shivaji), for there we reached some fata (crossing). Rest was easy, though one of us got separated, as in he was quick enough to get in right bus, while we were busy buying fruits.

Travelogue 8 - Trek Naneghat-Jivdhan Fort- February 2-3, 2013

Travelogue 9 - Sandhan Valley Trek– February 8-10, 2013

Personally, hill walking is like introspection and Sandhan valley trek was one of the best experiences till date. The trek was descending through the greatest canyon in Maharashtra, only of its kind I have ever been to. It has a beautiful path with iridescent shades and shadows of mountains running on the side, short walks in knee deep waters, spots where your eyes just want to absorb the beauty, but cautioning to watch ones steps. I couldn’t help comparing it with life, while moving through depressing downhill turn, can suddenly slip away. Everything else is exciting around you; however, life is testing you at every turn - flinging the worst it can – coercing you to turn away. The path was sliding gradually for miles to ground level, negotiating way through rough rock patches. It had rappelling, hopping over rocks, however, with enough time for deliberations, star gazing at night, swim in natural pool and napping under the sky. Drawing a parallel to my life, after MBA my social venture went bust and brought me to ground zero costing a year and half among other things, but at the end life seems beautiful with or without  complaints.

It was very last minute plan; busy week had ensured no time to plan for the weekend. I knew I had escape from Mumbai for two days, didn’t know where. On the Friday noon, a friend goggled TMI, a group leaving late night for some Sandhan valley trek and luckily had space for few. At 7 o’clock I called them, doing last round of query, still to finalize between the option of trekking  Harishchandragad peak by ourselves, one I was longing to go for some time now or this descend we had just googled and saw some snaps . We decided to decide after reaching a Ghatkopar station, least common denominator for both destinations. We left for dinner around 9, packing the bags after buying new pair of shoes; old ones had ended their support on the last trip to Naneghat Jivdhan.

On station we met few people from the same group, we all boarded 11:17 PM local to Kasara. At Kasara we joined rest of TMI group and finally knew were we were going (still joining the group I was nt sure where I was going…lol). It was a group of 30 individuals from different walks of life; all struck a formal friendly chord instantly. This was first time I was traveling with an unknown organized group. Around 2:30 AM we boarded local jeeps from Kasara to Samrad village (3000 fts above sea level). Reaching there around 5 AM, while rest of group decided to sleep, three of us went for late night stroll. Few miles from village, lying on the rocks by country roadside with silhouette of mountain at a distance in front, sky watching – saw few shooting stars, slice like moon hidden behind some hill. It was worth skipping the sleep, I had already started enjoying the place. About 7:30, we started descend, after having breakfast of PoranPoli, chapatti made with jaggery – Marathi special.

Sandhan valley is situated in the Sahyadri, Western Ghats, near Samrad village in Nagar District near Ratangad peak. Few minutes in the canyon/ gorge, it becomes clear why it’s called valley of shadows. Valley of Shadows is surrounded by Alang, Malang, Kulang, Kalsubai, Ratangad and Ajoba peaks, at some places has just few feet of space to walk and sun rays fail to touch ground between the natural walls of mountains. It’s a water carved ravine two km (approx) long and 50 to 400 feet deep, with few water filled patches, making sure it drenches you waist deep.

Gradually place sinks in, if rocks make the knees crack and shadows of the mountain with each step promise eyes the more magnificent views. As soon as you start enjoying the trail, spot comes where the way forward is walking through waist deep water. Out of water, drained energy makes you forget about drenched cloths. Before one reaches the sudden fall of 50 feet (rappelling point); the walk through water faints into memory. This was first time, I would be doing rappelling, walk till now had silent and retrospective for me. At beginning, I was walking with friend made in local, after water patch had separated. It was insightful silent watchful walk, only few instants getting or extending support on uneven surface to each-other in the group. The ways through hills  are like ways through life, intriguing personal and impersonal simultaneously. In between, I started walking with a group singing songs – old melodies in most unusual of the places may have disturb some but it made my journey more relaxing and thoughtful.

Mentioning the above brief, was important as discussion with few of these people, which started at rappelling point continued till end of the trek and was in continuation of my deliberation about society and life in last few years. It also reminds me of few similar discussion at other unusual (may seem awkward places to many) places with people I had just met – like at Brighton beach, Humpi Badami trip or talks at UP election travel with strangers. The discussion engulfed the topics ranging from society, economics, spirituality and India vis-à-vis its spiritual traditions.

The rappelling may have been one of the most existing new things I may have done in couple of years. Though I was profusely sweating when reaching down, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Seeing sudden fall of 50 feet didn’t give as much thrill as rappelling it down. The next four rock patches till roping were I guess most difficult ones on the track. At second last of them one has to slip through cavity in the rocks and one drops down from hole below to ground below it. Thanks to shouts, we wouldn’t have found the hole in the rocks. Most of the tiring trail was covered, with only a roping point, once doing it was all smooth walk. However, majority of best scenic place had past too. Sun, shadow, walls and falls with breeze passing through the greens, make the ravine delight to eyes and mind.

Henceforth, the discussion developed, becoming more stimulating and insightful. By evening time we reached our resting site for night. Leaving our bags, most of us jumped in the pond in vicinity (I guess a small waterfall in monsoon), big water hole between the massive rocks. The way pond was laid out by nature, it seemed as much a wonder as the valley of shadows we had just passed. Pond had big rocks on three sides, in front a flat entrance side and rock bang opposite entrance side had feet long space above to sit or dive in deeper side. As others cooked dinner, the discussion picked up again till night sky was filled with start on a no moon night, Amavasya. The yesterday’s sky watching gave way to star gazing, (of course a new friend knew most about them, and was kind enough to share). After, school may be locate Orion, Sapt Rishi, Milky Way and lot many others till I fell to sleep.

In morning, it was swimming time again in the pond. It seemed private pool then as hardly anybody dared to get into water, maybe wrongly presuming it was cold or may be disinterested. For me it was more relaxing than the night sleep. After breakfast we started again for end base village and end of my weekend. It was a walk on relatively flat ground towards the Dehane village (Base of Ajoba fort) in Thane district. It seemed the valley, pool and nature were tempting one to stay back, and forget the tiredness. The descend, like spiraling down phase of life, too just leaves enjoyable memories and rest all would be a passing phase. Back to ground zero, we had Marathi lunch of peetla, bakri, kadi at a house in the village with friendly kids and got in jeeps to catch local. You can desire to get away from maddening life of concentrated human habitation, called cities, however to escape is different game altogether.

Still to visit: Harishchandragad peak, Aswala Fort, Bhairavgad Fort, Pabargad Fort, Ratangad, Alang –Madan-Kulang Fort, Kalsubai (5400 ft. highest peak in Maharashtra)

Travelogue 9 - Sandhan Valley Trek– February 8-10, 2013.