Friday, May 24, 2013

Sloganeering: Fading charm of Indian Elections


Sloganeering: Fading charm of Indian Elections
Having travelled in almost three major elections in bid to immerse and grasp the rhymes and rhythms of the people and land in the swaying times of elections. Though I either neither see much change from the old books written in pre-1947 era nor comprehend the fever with which politicians legitimise their elections or our own faith in the system. However, its the most complex democratic exercise across the globe and if one seeks to be a traveller it’s a periodic festival of its kind.

During a recent discussion with friends, I was bemused by the class of few of the slogans in post 1947 politics.
I was just wondering on art with of Slogans their spiced up catchiness and the people who devised some of the most heady catchphrase which sometime captured the mood of the massed and sometimes when down with even a fizzle.

The two which are personally addictic since long time are:
  • Teen Anna Pandrah Anna (3 annas −15 annas) – coined by Lohia on apathetic of then Prime Minister and Planning commission towards masses. It seems bland and boring; however, like Lohia it has depth and grief of nation. Seems to be true till now.
  • Yeh Dekho Indira Ka Khel, Kha Gayi Shakkar, Pee Gayi Tel – one of the best one – On entertainer Indira Gandhi and distraught masses.
Before going forward I would like to apologies that most are captured from northern states, mostly because of my limited knowledge and also because of lack of command over languages.

The famous and provocative slogans: Impressive and demeaning depending where is your fence:

·         Jab tak suraj chand rahega, Indira tera naam rahega and Indira Gandhi lao, desh bachaao – Congress Slogan. J. P. Narayan may have aptly answered it by Indira hatao, desh bachao” for the 1977 general elections.
 
·         "Sabko Dekha Bari Bari, Abki Bari Atal Bihari" – BJP’s slogan for Atal

·         Kalyan Singh kalyan karo, mandir ka nirman karo – people asking Kalyan Singh for Ram Mandir

·         Three of the most innovative once form BSP “Tilak, taraju aur talwar; inko maaro joote chaar”, “Haathi nagin Ganesh Hai, Brahma, Vishnu, Mahesh hain”, and “Chad gundon ki chhati par, mohar laga do haathi par”

·         BSP saying for Uttar Pradesh: “Patthar rakh lo chhati par, button dabao hathi par”, equally witted SP’s retort “Gunda chad gaya haathi par, goli maara chhati par”. Not many considered this "Desh ke sir ka Taj banega, UP awwal Rajya banega" – BJP and this "Sonia nahi ye andhi hai, dusri Indira Gandhi".

·         "Maa, Maati, Manush” – TMC, Mamta banerjee

Short Stories:

·         Ek sherni, sau langoor, Chikmaglur, Chikmaglur.” - Devraj Urs, for Indira Gandhi’s by-election in 1978.
·         Hum saugandh Ram ki khate hain, mandir wahin banayenge.” - The BJP’s chant in 1989 which led it to a stupendous victory.
·         Jaat par na pat par, mohar lagegi haath par.” - P.V.Narasimha Rao coined this slogan for the 1996 elections.
·         "Indira is India and India is Indira" by Congressmen Dev Kant Baruah during the state of emergency in the mid 70s.
·         "Aam Aadmi Ko Kya Mila?" – Congress slogan against BJP
·         Lal Salam - CPI
·         Jansangha ko vote do, Beedi pina chhor do, Beedi mein tambakhu hai, Congresswallah chore hai.” – Jan Sangh
·         Jai Ho by Congress
·         Kushal Neta, Nirnayak Sarkaar by BJP for Advani
·         Jab Tak Rahega, Samose mein aloo, Tab tak Rahega, Bihar mein Laloo – for Laloo Prasad Yadav
·         Chalega Haathi Udegi dhool, na rahega punja na rahega phool.” – BSP
·         Vote hamara-Raj tumhara, Nahi chalega-nahi chalega” , “Jo zamin sarkari hai, who zamin hamari hai” , “Jiski jitni sankhya bhari, utni uski hissedari” - Kansi Ram -  master of sloganeering
·         "UP hui hamari hai, ab dilli ki bari hai; Bharat ki majboori hai, behen Mayawati zaroori hai" – BSP
·         "Aam aadmi ke badhte kadam, har kadam par Bharat buland" – Congress
·          "Vikas ka mehnatana mangne aaye hain" - Nitish Kumar
·         "Aatank mein jeena hai ya aman-chain mein?” – BJP-JDU combine Bihar

Some banal lines or false promises:

These sank without a trace or should have: Some captured people’s imagination and failed to delivery other either didn’t delivery or the if they did, the beneficiaries failed to keep them.
·         Congress  - Amethi ka danka, beti Priyanka; Congress ka haath, aam aadmi ke saath; aam aadmi ke badte kadam, Har kadam par Bharat buland; Congress ko lana hai, desh ko bachana hai;  Uthe Hajaron Haath, Sonia Ji Ke Saath
 
·          Bahujan Samaj Party - UP hui hamari hai, ab dilli ki baari hai, BSP Ki Kya Pehchan, Neela Jhanda Haathi Nishan; slogan "Khula hathi lakh ka, band hathi sawa lakh ka"

·          Samajwaadi Party - UP me hai dum, jurm hai yahan kam;  Badli badli hawa chali, badla badla mausam, kayam rahe Uttar Pradesh, kayam rahe Mulayam; Bol Mulayam Halla Bol, Halla Bol'.

·          Bharatiya Janata Party - Ram Lala Hum Aayenge, Mandir Vahin Banayenge;  Yeh to kewal jhaanki hai, Kashi Mathura baaki hai; Varun nahi, yeh aandhi hai, doosra Sanjay Gandhi hai;

And the some crispy slogans:

·         "Garabi Hatao" - Indira Gandhi's campaign in 1971

·         "India Shining" – BJP’s Promod Mahajan miscalculations

·         "Jai Jawan, Jai Kisan" – Lal Bahadur Shastri

·         “Work more talk less” -  Indira Gandhi, office in 1966.
·         "Hindi-Chini Bhai-Bhai" – if that miscalculation this one was out of proportions by Jawaharlal Nehru

·         "Jai Jawan, Jai Kisan, Jai Vigyan" - Atal Bihari Vajpayee
·         "Sampoorna Kranti"  – J. P. Narayanan
·         'Save Tamil Nadu' – Jayalalithaa

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Setting a Bad Precedent: Sham Innocence

Setting a Bad Precedent: Sham Innocence

Too many times we get over emotional forgiving the mistakes, over burdening the public opinion almost swaying in favour of the culprit if not the crime, ignoring the deeds and the betrayal, and siding with spine doctors especially if it’s our heartthrob fall from grace. We wait neither for eugenics if only the offender is not faking coming back to senses nor make sure swift delivery of justice, rather the air becomes heavy with sob saga paving for soft acquittal of guilty.

In matter of couple of days, two cases of betrayal, ingenuity and shame have capture attention of this struggling nation - IPL spot fixing with star culprit Sreesanth and Sanjay attempt to trade his already minuscule punishment with emotional pitches and public endorsements. Both situations may have been avoided, if law was not subjugated in favour of public persona and stopped the culture of setting bad precedents. Had star criminals like  Mohammad Azharuddin for his venturing into match fixing, Sanjay Dutt for keeping company of Ak-47, grenades and underworld at the time of Mumbai blast, things may have been different.

However rather than implicating culprits for deed we are showering them with gifts, Sanjay Dutt initially arrested under TADA but gradually TADA was repealed to let crime go more or less unpunished. Once in middle of match fixing ex-captain of Indian team, Azharuddin is now Member of Parliament from Moradabad Constituency. Salman Khan roams free after driving over labourers and shooting black bucks (cases motionless in court). No wonder, good incentive for mind with criminal tendencies – letting glamour and power call shots aren’t we sending wrong message to a prospective offender. We should shameful that innumerable Salman Khans and Shakti Kapoors almost scot free or even award in India. Is this the reason of spike in crimes, on streets, towards children and women, criminalisation of youth and politics, corruption among so called educated classes, promises of easy life and easy exits? How does youth of today see as role models? Do we want toothless enforcement agencies?

If we continue with the prevailing tendency, we as society not questioning what we stand for, what we support, not stating clearly that justice delayed is justice denied and wondering rational for being concerned. Are we clueless about whose justice is denied – apparently the answer is ours - civil society, consumer, country, and humanity. When a person misuses the position to either cross the bridge unethically obtaining an unfair advantage or joins the bomb blasting conspirators, it’s putting our life and the general public at stake. We are the prime stakeholders of the modern state – all the three/four of its pillar stand on us and to connect the dots for us. The legislative, executive, judiciary and the media, would be feeble and useless we are not actively participating in the working. 

Only in state of lawlessness and disorder, such apathetic unscrupulous personalities can buy public opinions and judgments. Remember the public outcry Bill Clinton Monica Lewinsky controversy and corporate scams generate in US, Chinese criticised a controversial war memorial by Japanese leaders, outrage against
Silvio Berlusconi Italy’s Prime minister – all for misuse of office. Why this is missing here, misuse of office and frauds are crimes and we need to ensure fast redressal system.

Rather than be sympathetic or indifferent towards crocodile tear shedding, half mocking and non-repenting culprits, we need to make sure it’s clear in black and white one cannot take laws in hand just for pleasure and fancies. And in case of repenting, one must before asking for leniency start from offer public apology and full cooperation to the system giving details of the conspirators and involvement. Till people start participating as stakeholder of this system, understanding their rights and duties, these social lacunas would not be plugged and the system remain corrupt and biased towards the elite exploiters.

Till then criminals would go scot free, stalking, and misusing any opportunity and we would keep on burying our necks like ostrich sham innocence. The justice would be denied, inequalities would prevail and society would not be safe.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

If it was not Sanjay Dutt! What if it was me or You?

If it was not Sanjay Dutt, What if it was me or You!

It was 1993, just two decades back almost this time of the year 13 bombs exploded in Mumbai, erstwhile Bombay on Friday, 12 March 1993. It is still one of the most successful non war attacks on Indian soil which killed a minimum of 250 people and injuring lot many. The gruesome attack on Mumbai, its people and the country was executed by D-Company however; the conspirators included the likes of Sanjay Dutt.
 
At that time, he was a budding actor, a super-star's son but a spoilt brat caught possessing Ak-47s and live grenades. Are we letting him free too easily? Do we suffer from no memory or are we mocking standards of sympathy? Is it because collective memory is like a sieve or have we become too indifferent to crime and hate that we can let entertainers of the day scout free- just because the culprit plays a good cop in a movie, Gandhi in another or good/dancer/comedian in others?

Just to remind the depth of the tragedy- Sanjay Dutt possessed 3 AK-56 rifles, 9 magazines, 450 cartridges 9mm pistol and around 20 hand grenades. Initially, court hearing he claimed it was for self protection and said in his own words that it was provided by Hanif Kadawala, Abu Salem and Samir Hingora, complies of Anees, Daewood Brother and Daewood, to whom he got introduced years through actor-producer Feroz Khan. Later Sanjay understanding the danger of keeping them got consignment destroyed except for 1 AK-56 and some ammunition. The weapons and ammunition was "distributed among various underworld elements" to quote indiatimes news publication.
 
Recently, after the court had passed the verdict to imprison the person with mere 5 year minimum possible sentence for one of the most gruesome act in history of Mumbai, his backers like Gitanjali Jewels, Producers/Financiers, Film Fraternity has no sympathy for the victims or country but for the culprit actor. Or they don’t care till public gives them money? Do we Anna Hazares to fight unethical advertising?

Dutt like others was booked under TADA, it is widely speculated/believed the whole TADA act was repealed due to his father, Sunil Dutt’s, the then congress politician and ex mega star, through political persuasive aggressive lobbing. An act was repealed to save an accomplice? Post it, Sanjay has backtracked from most of the statement; previously he was released earlier then implicated terms for TADA was done away with.
People should remember in reel life a Khalnayak can pass off Munna Bhai portraying Gandhigari, however, should a Real life khalnayak get sympathy from the same society which was bombed, from the consumer who can be swayed away with emotion? Is it justified by advertisers and producers to be so insensitive to general public? Should not general public raise their voice against leniency shown?
He has neither rendered a public apology nor has come out clear with his involvement rather been retracting on his statements and with each p assessing year, denying the extent of the involvement. Would this kind of the behaviour pass off so lightly in any other community, state or even jungle raj? Has he even had change of heart? He was shamelessly contesting for Lucknow Parliamentary seat from SP in last elections, why – was he proud of history of bombing or evading the jails?
What if it was you who did it or I, a Good Samaritan or even an unknown commoner, even if by mistake? Would be treated similarly as this son of cinema with past dotted with drugs, his abuse of alcohol and alleged skirt chasing, having being a accomplice of people on most wanted global list and corroborated in the sinister bomb blast which changed the city forever can have all the leniency from getting a state act repealed to least possible punishment?
Would it happen in London, Cuba, Beijing, Washington, Moscow, even Dubai, Cairo why then it can happen here in Mumbai? Are we setting a precedent– Yes? What could be next leniency to rapist, murderer, terrorist, and rioter? Bollywood rules our heart for entertainment and it pay for it with affection and tonnes of money – next thing do they too want to above all and people? Would we in next advertisement see Deowood, Madani or Godsey promoting products?
Are we waiting for old Russian poem to be true?
“First they came for the communists,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a communist.
 
Then they came for the socialists,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a socialist.
 
Then they came for the trade unionists,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a trade unionist.
 
Then they came for the Jews,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a Jew.
 
Then they came for me,
and there was no one left to speak for me.”
 
Sources: (Much of coverage is missing online, i guess due to spine doctors)
Details of Killing:
Sanjay Hearing:
http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/thscrip/print.pl?file=20070323003912800.htm&date=fl2405/&prd=fline&

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Travelogue 9 – Velas-Turtle Breeding-Janjira-Murud– February 16-17, 2013


I was leaving for Idduki, Kerala next week for almost 15 days, therefore there was a huge temptation and advices from friend to stay at home this weekend and rest. However, back of my mind I was thinking if I don’t go to Velas then I could miss watching little olive riddle crawling to shore. Moreover, I was planning to stay in the village for a night that would make up for rest.
Till Friday, noon I was no sure where to take the bus from, in Maharashtra people usually reserved their bus tickets for long trips, which was new to me. I took from Mumbai Central a 00:30 AM bus, and slept as soon as after haggling conductor allowed me to sit in some seat in the back. Few hours on the road, I woke up when head had banged the handle of mirror on left. Bus was hopping from pothole to another, my was hit twice and paining, however as soon I opened the window, I could smell moist soil and very light drizzle may be first drizzle. The refreshing smell was conducive enough  to discourage one getting back to sleep, it’s been almost a year the smells was back, last time I was in UP, traveling Badaun around the election session.  Soon, I picked up Gandhi again, his observation 70-80 years back seems true even today, people struggling to keep afloat.
By the time dawn break, I had hurt my head again and it would pain for at least a week. The first rays of Sun serving reminder the bus was late bus, but presented the beauty of Konkan. Bus was slowly moving on the hills, sea on the left side, in between came Savitri River, emptying whatever it was with left in the sea. I wish I could just get down, sit there relish the poster portrait of nature.
I had missed the morning session of the turtle breeding, when all the new ones are collected and left near the shore to walk their way, I surveyed the crawling marks of mother turtle which had come last night and left its track. The harmful creatures comes, crawls, digs up a hole and lays eggs expecting cooperation from humans to not disturb them. However, we thinking mightiest of all have ruined our own life and theirs too. In Velas social organizations like Kasav Mita Mandal and Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra Manda have done great work for their natural habitat conservation and making local environmental friendly. To an extend now local host the visitors at their home.
   I stayed at Santosh Joshi’s place, small family, masi was really nice showed documents she had collected over the years about turtle breeding and their daughter was involved in the conservation work since class 4. In day I went around, the Velas once famous for Nana Phadnavis, went to rameshwar shiv temple and the farms of my host. One could smell mangos in the breeze as Haapos tree were laden with greens.  Also took dumdum (auto) to nearby village Bankot, near the sea coast it has an old depleted fort Shiva ji Empire.
In the evening, I hurried to the Velas beach to the watch the main attraction of my travel. The cordoned off area had huge crowded, recent popularity had drawn crowd from all over Maharashtra. Anyways it was sight to see six of the tittle ones with tender, slow find they own ways to crawl the sea, its light they seek and sea offers them that bright light.
I was appreciating the beauty and struggle of the little ones, suddenly heard a comment which just pinched me, a kid also vitnessig the event for first time asked his mother why turtle are walking at different speed why not all of them are as fast as the first one, the sick lady replied the faster turtle was good kid, like kids in school those do study and listen to their parent come first and rest are bad and weak. I do not know why I wrote, when I heard this I felt, for kid for all of us, make are children machines in rat race, teach them about fulfilling wants and desires, coming first at any cost and forget that the little of innocence/ignorance may keep us more human.
After watching with delight, life events of freshly hatched turtles, I walked with my newly made friends Murli and Johnson to the dongar (hill) adjust to sea and watch the sun dip at the end of the horizon in the sea.  
If the lunch was best meal in the week, dinner was no less, once again I was lucky to gorge one more new Marathi preparation koshabhi, I presume mix of other veg with tomato. Dinner followed a play and few videos at the Durga temple. Two family at arrived at host’s place, post dinner I went on walk the family of Sandeep bhai, enjoyed with their twin little girls, cute kids.
I had stayed back, one more session with little turtles. Woke up early, probably was one of the first visitor to reach the beach, serene splendor when sun rise in the back and one sit enjoying the waves, I sat there wrote few poems and waited for hatched turtle to come out of pit of sand to be dropped near the shore.  After getting the eyeful of the baby olive riddle, it was time to move.
I took the bus with visitor neighbors – Saurav, his wife (forgot her name) and Sitaram. Now on the list was Jangira, one famous spot on Konkan I had missed, however latter released its over rated. Got down at Vesvi to take a boat for Harihasreshwar with Saurav, Sitaram parted straight for Mumbai.
I dropped the family, at Harihasreshwar, telling them about impressive old shiva temple there gorge behind it. Carried on in dumdum to Srivardhan, from where I had to take bus to Dighi. Almost 1 hour of wait and nothing came, finally jumped in a truck to Dighi, few hundreds meter on the route, tired got punctured; I was already late and had just few maps to guide on unfrequented road to an unfamiliar town. Trucker was disinterested to carry on the journey till the new get the tire repaired, left with no choice waving at each vehicle passing by. My a motorbike stoped, Santosh Dombe, I should never forget you, as you took me next 30 kms to Rajpuri, telling me more places and temples of Shiva. From Dinge we took a boat, boat, me and Good Samaritan.     
In front of Rajpuri, stood the Janjira fort, one takes a sail boat with 50 people to reach the sea fort, i felt this was best part of this attraction. Fort has massive walls, however most the what guide say here are utter lies, therefore I roamed around alone, and was able to shoots in few of their lies too. First one was fort has one gate, it has too and other one is more tourist friendly and half of the construction they pass of as old is new, on can easily see iron rods and cement beams. Coming back on the boats was stirring and entertaining, met an old fellow who has a handicraft shop in front of regal Mumbai, takes all his staff for a one day monthly tour.
Good time, wrote and read a little, met nice people and enjoyed nature.

Travelogue 9 – Velas-Turtle Breeding-Janjira-Murud– February 16-17, 2013

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

चलता रहा, हसता रहा !!!


दर दर तेरी आस में,
तेरे प्यार की सुअगत में!
चलता रहा,
हसता  रहा!

चोर चोरी कर गए,
में मासूम बनता रहा,
देश धरती भूल के,
इंसानियत चुन्गता रहा!

सरकारी किताब थी,
इन्फ्लेशन की मार ही!
आपराध सुजता समाज था,
स्त्री पुरुष पे कलंगो का भार था!

बहरूपियों का जंजाल था,
चिक्ति पुकार थी!
मांगती सर्कार थी,
सब बन गया बाज़ार था!

आत्मा की आवाज़ थी,
माँ की पुकार थी!
में चलने लगा,
हसने लगा!

Friday, February 15, 2013

Travelogue 8 - Trek Naneghat-Jivdhan Fort- February 2-3, 2013

Even before coming to Mumbai I had googled trekking destinations in the vicinity. It was after a year being here and almost three years of last trekking experience; I was about to trek Naneghat and Jivdhan. We started early Saturday morning, reaching Kalyan by local train. From Kalyan, we took the state transport bus heading to Junnar. Bus would drop us at base of Naneghat. We had planned first to trek Naneghat (750 m), a mountain pass in the Western Ghats (near village Vaishakare, Malshej Ghat, Junnar in Pune), by the evening and next day do Jivdhan (1145 meters). Almost half an hour of journey our bus broke down. All my plans seem to be in jeopardy; luckily we managed to get in other bus. Anyways, we reached the post around 2 o’clock, and realised we had forgotten to bring torch and adequate water.
Hill walking is like a meditation cutting yourself off from the city life and immersing in lap of nature. One can contemplate bits and pieces of life, walking up and down the mischievous terrain which is quite similar to that of life. Sometimes, you are following the right trail and one wrong turn disappoints you. At some places, the pinnacle seems just above you, however, after climbing one understands that it was just a mirage, curves of hills playing tricks with you. What you see may not be the best hill offer, but best of your ability at specific moment. As I said hill walking is for me is time for introspection, deliberation and contemplation.
In beginning, I was exhilarated and confident, however, within 20-30 minutes I was breathing heavily, realising no fitness regime and bad life style with age was coming back to me. Even on such an early stage of trek I was dragging myself and promising myself to build up endurance, once back. Due to less rain in Maharashtra this year, the natural habitat was dry and hot with sun on top. Unable to enjoy beautiful views, I was gasping for air. Taking breaks every few minutes with heavy chest and cursing myself, this was proving to be one of the most difficult treks ever, even though I had been to tougher destinations.
In the middle of no-where, over our heads were high voltage power-lines coming from one side of horizon and disappearing into the other side climbing the hill. In a few minutes, we could hear a buzzing sound; first I thought it was chirping of birds, however soon I realized that it was rather sound coming from these wires. I was wondering the extent of exploitation by man to hedge a comfortable life and this irritating constant buzzing sound possibly disturbs birds and animals. In cities, I had not heard the sound of these wires may be due to noise of population and other noise pollution. We were walking in middle of wires running parallel on each side, the noise became a nuisance. Sorry, to write a too much on it, I hated the meddling with nature.
We had finished two water bottles in an hour and half. There was no sign of any other trekker, only faded trails, still air and amazing sight which I was hardly noticing given tiredness. I would have given it up, if we were a larger group or i was alone. Two hours must have passed when we heard human chatter, hopefully not far ahead of us. My friend climb up, it was great relief that they had given us some water and informed a water source was not far. We hurriedly reached there, drank and splashed water on ourselves and started again for top. By the way, we had a taken a longer way doing a round of dried waterfall.
Once I reached Naneghat, it was spectacular panoramic view, I felt relaxed disregarding the gruelling journey. Historically, Naneghat was a used a tollbooth for using the pass between Junnar and Kalyan, and inscription in the cave at top indicates the work of Satavahana rulers and their a powerful woman ruler Naganika mentioning names of gods Yama,  Indra, Chandra and Surya and cute beautiful temple of lord Ganesha in cave.
Strolling through the Naneghat pass and then climbing hills on the side, standing on the cliff and enjoying the tranquil nature and stimulating views, it was dark before I released. I was completely lost in the place. Around 8, we found a house of Santosh Shinde, rather he found us, as we standing in dark guessing what to do. Post dinner at his place and offer to sleep at night, we headed for a late night walk. I ate for first time – home cooked bhakri, nachni with peethla and pejholi.
What followed would hard to forget for long time now. After across the cave, and four man made big water hole, we sat on edge for few hours on a joint. While walking back after few seconds I released something happen. My right leg, slipped in the last water hole, which was way of the symmetrical line of other holes. My foot hit the water, I could remember hearing the sound of splash. My left hip had hit the floor, fortunately left hand got hold of a iron railing outside. Intuitively, I flung myself out of the hole. Within, seconds it all had happend. When I came out I released, that i had fallen and was out too. Friend walking behind me, released it too after I was out. Hip, knee arm and ankle were paining terrible, however we laughing loudly on the way this occurred and how i was came out.
After this unasked for risky adventure, i decide to stay at Santosh’s place for night and see in morning if I can go further. Day two, I woke up early. Sat on hill top and stretched for some time, it was so tranquil I was wishing to live there forever. The breeze was soft, casual and calm. Eyes were absorbing stimulating nature in flawless morning the sun light. I hovered there for hour or so.
Leisurely, walked to Satosh’s home for Marathi breakfast. Around the same time, three guys came in asking for tea. They had climbed after sun, were not sure to go back or do Jhivdhan too. With in no time and short conversation, we all decided to do it together.
Around 9:30, we started for Jivdhan, first headed for other direction to have a look at the small lake near the lodging and then carried on with trek. We had to aim for Khada Parsi (aka Wanar Lingi) (a 130 m high pinnacle) which would help us reach Jivdhan. After some time, we were in small patch for dense jungle. Finally, after losing our way again, struggling, getting help from people at top, we were able to reach to top. On all the sides, we could see ghats and peaks. Btw, here yet again i had small fall between rocks, guiding the way. The place was appealing and .
Once upon a time, there was Shivaji maharaj fort on Jivdhan (3754 ft above sea level); one can only imagine the strength, strategy and valour of Shivaji and his army to make provisions at difficult places. I had read that one can have full panoramic view of peaks - Harishchandragad, Chavaand, Ratangad, Naneghat, Manikdoh Dam and the entire Junnar plateau. However, I was enjoying the site, not knowing one peak from another. We cooked soups at the top and ate Bhakri-thecha packed by Santosh.
After wee hours at top, we started back, on the way back from sides towards Ghatgare village; my shoe cracked negotiating the awfully rough rock patch. We had to slip and crawl our way down. After shoe giving way, I had to carefully manage the steps, lest I slip and fall. Almost around 4 we reached the village, filled water bottled and ran to catch the jeep for Junnar, base town for Shivneri(birth place of one of the greatest king Shivaji), for there we reached some fata (crossing). Rest was easy, though one of us got separated, as in he was quick enough to get in right bus, while we were busy buying fruits.
Travelogue 8 - Trek Naneghat-Jivdhan Fort- February 2-3, 2013

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Travelogue 7 - Ajanta, Ellora and Girsneswar - January 25-28, 2013

When I started this trip, I was not sure, how it would turn up. Budget constrain, wasn’t feeling best of in shape, busy work week and lastly, was wondering would it be just another history tour. Nevertheless, when one had to go, one has to go. The weekend trip itinerary had on the list Ajanta and Ellora Caves, Kailasnath Mandir, Girsneswar Jotyiling, Devigiri fort, and few other old monuments if time permits. I also wanted to visit nearby Gautala wildlife sanctuary; however time constrains couldn’t make it in plan. Moreover, I would have been uncomfortable seeing plight of forest and farmers due to less the average rain in this region of Maharashtra, this year.
As usual, we took late evening Friday bus to Aurangabad, in history titled as Devgriri. On the sideline, recently there was proposal to re-name it as Shamba ji nagar, the proposed move was defected due to incumbent central ruling party government favored the current name Aurangabad. It’s named after one of the last effective Moghul king Aurangzeb, after  he made this city - capital of his empire. He was infamous communal oppressive autocratic rule.
Reaching around after 12 hours, our cabbie Bhagwat picked us up. He was well informed and good company. Day 1 had on list: Ellora, Devgiri and Girneswar. Ellora is around 30 km from the city, famous for its Buddha, Jaina and Shiva Caves including Kaliasa Temple Complex (“one of the great monolithic structure in the world”) and Chaitya temple (from which todays chapels and cathedrals are supposed to be inspired from) thought to be constructed between 5th and 13th century. On the way near Ellora, there is old city, now town daultabad (dault-wealth), on the hill overlooking town stand impregnable (as of my friend called) Devgiri fort. From the bottom of the hill, fort seems crown on top of the hill, a formidable fort of a city once famous for its of wealth and rich society; then righty called as Devgiri (abode of gods); falling on ancient trade route of dakshinapatha.
4 km from there, are the Ellora structures, formally known as Elura, Verul and even Charanadari meaning “denizen of celestial region” for its scenic beauty. Roughly in the middle of the all caves stands the magnificent marvel Kailashnath temple. It took an hour, for the magnetic and astounding story of the temple to sink it. It is a single rock temple, made top to bottom front to end, from a mountain. No boulder was moved from distance, no external rock used. Sometime 1000 year back in history, they carved an artistic temple out of mountain. With intricate designs, double story, magnificent, yalli (tamil name), gopurams, panels depicting of Mahabharat & Ramayan, sculptures of Shiva and other others, it’s a sight one wonders if we are going back in time or just imagining it. Even to think about its construction, seems a herculean task. I climbed on the part of the hill above temple, for overwhelming bird eye view.
Experiencing reverberating sound of chanters in the Chaitya hall (cave number 10), makes the hill live one forget about the travel and place stop seeming old but functioning. The Mahayana and Hinayana caves with darpalas, padampani, varjapani, tara and other sculptures, belittle todays achievement of progress. The Jaina caves – one is a mandir known as chota kailasha. The caves have intricately carved idols of gods and goddess, and Tirthankars. One of the most noticeable is seated Mahavir attended by yakshas and yakshis. There Ellora caves are attributed kings -Krishan I, Rastrakutak king –Dantidurga, Calkuyas of Badami, however to me there seems no conclusive proof of time of construction and the reigning kings objectively.  
In the evening, after completing the group of monuments, we went for dinner at a restaurant Virandaban recommended by Bhagwat. The place had best thali, I have ever head after coming to Mumbai.
Next stop was evening darshan at Girneswar Jyotilink. The mystic place of Shiva has a dress code, males can enter garbha grah only shirtless, precisely topless. All the days travel and tiredness disappeared sitting in the temple premise, calmness and peace prevailed over worrisome thoughts of mind time.
Day two it was Ajanta, around 100 kms from city, on the way, talking to locals and farmers, I released extend of loss suffered due to less than average of rain. Drying cotton plants were standing in the field with no cotton. The forest wore a worn out demeanor. Usually at this time of the year, water is receding in the seasonal water bodies, cultivators fields are blossoming and forest is green, however this year all were facing adversity and our big metropolitans were not even talking about it, too lost in their own agendas. By the way, two handicrafts from the region are Paithani and Himroo.
Group of rock cut caves at Ajanta are dedicated to Buddha, the enlightened one. Even the bus ride from parking to caves suggests that we are going back in time traveling in the serene natural beauty, one is bound to contemplate. Lost in jangles and mountains, the first view of caves is breathtaking. Out of nowhere, one sees caves after caves along the hills with a corridor and below now seasonal river Waghore, and a waterfall Satkund (dry when I visited).  Once upon a time, rock cut caves (viharas- monasteries) were used as rain shelters for monks in the mountain. The first of mural painted caves are estimated have been constructed around 2nd B.C. In early 19th century a Britisher hunting for lion, who has itched his name on painting on the pillar, accidently discovered these lost caves. Just for FYI, there are no lions in the forest now.
Paintings depict events in life of Buddha, and only personal experience of being there can make one understand the artistic, spiritual and architectural depth of these monuments. My best three are a painting of Buddha in yellow robe (cave-17, tried clinking it number of times, however could not get on camera what my eyes experienced),   sculpture of Buddha lying in one of the last caves (it was calm and smiling –as asking you purpose of life) and equality of sexes so common to historic Hindu art and culture which we find missing in today’s world.
Described many time as second to none, in these monuments are paintings more than a millennium old, staring at you from all dimensions, not asking you for attention but understanding of society, life and history. What must have gone wrong and what is still to be resolved.
In the evening after dinner and chat with friends at a restaurant Windsor castle. I was wishing to have spent at least day more here, visiting the national park, Pitalhora caves (40 km away from city), two caves in the city of Laxmi and Ganesh in the city and spent more time with around there city. However office calls, monthly bills have to paid: P
The last minute in city was most dramatic, in the conversation with friends we missed our bus. By the time we released it, taxi was gone. We had to take auto till next stop of the bus and ask bus to slow down.

Travelogue 7 - Ajanta Ellora and Girsneswar - January 25-28, 2013

Monday, February 11, 2013

Travelogue 9 - Sandhan Valley Trek– February 8-10, 2013

Personally, hill walking is like introspection and Sandhan valley trek was one of the best experiences till date. The trek was descending through the greatest canyon in Maharashtra, only of its kind I have ever been to. It has a beautiful path with iridescent shades and shadows of mountains running on the side, short walks in knee deep waters, spots where your eyes just want to absorb the beauty, but cautioning to watch ones steps. I couldn’t help comparing it with life, while moving through depressing downhill turn, can suddenly slip away. Everything else is exciting around you; however, life is testing you at every turn - flinging the worst it can – coercing you to turn away. The path was sliding gradually for miles to ground level, negotiating way through rough rock patches. It had rappelling, hopping over rocks, however, with enough time for deliberations, star gazing at night, swim in natural pool and napping under the sky. Drawing a parallel to my life, after MBA my social venture went bust and brought me to ground zero costing a year and half among other things, but at the end life seems beautiful with or without  complaints.

It was very last minute plan; busy week had ensured no time to plan for the weekend. I knew I had escape from Mumbai for two days, didn’t know where. On the Friday noon, a friend goggled TMI, a group leaving late night for some Sandhan valley trek and luckily had space for few. At 7 o’clock I called them, doing last round of query, still to finalize between the option of trekking  Harishchandragad peak by ourselves, one I was longing to go for some time now or this descend we had just googled and saw some snaps . We decided to decide after reaching a Ghatkopar station, least common denominator for both destinations. We left for dinner around 9, packing the bags after buying new pair of shoes; old ones had ended their support on the last trip to Naneghat Jivdhan.

On station we met few people from the same group, we all boarded 11:17 PM local to Kasara. At Kasara we joined rest of TMI group and finally knew were we were going (still joining the group I was nt sure where I was going…lol). It was a group of 30 individuals from different walks of life; all struck a formal friendly chord instantly. This was first time I was traveling with an unknown organized group. Around 2:30 AM we boarded local jeeps from Kasara to Samrad village (3000 fts above sea level). Reaching there around 5 AM, while rest of group decided to sleep, three of us went for late night stroll. Few miles from village, lying on the rocks by country roadside with silhouette of mountain at a distance in front, sky watching – saw few shooting stars, slice like moon hidden behind some hill. It was worth skipping the sleep, I had already started enjoying the place. About 7:30, we started descend, after having breakfast of PoranPoli, chapatti made with jaggery – Marathi special.

Sandhan valley is situated in the Sahyadri, Western Ghats, near Samrad village in Nagar District near Ratangad peak. Few minutes in the canyon/ gorge, it becomes clear why it’s called valley of shadows. Valley of Shadows is surrounded by Alang, Malang, Kulang, Kalsubai, Ratangad and Ajoba peaks, at some places has just few feet of space to walk and sun rays fail to touch ground between the natural walls of mountains. It’s a water carved ravine two km (approx) long and 50 to 400 feet deep, with few water filled patches, making sure it drenches you waist deep.

Gradually place sinks in, if rocks make the knees crack and shadows of the mountain with each step promise eyes the more magnificent views. As soon as you start enjoying the trail, spot comes where the way forward is walking through waist deep water. Out of water, drained energy makes you forget about drenched cloths. Before one reaches the sudden fall of 50 feet (rappelling point); the walk through water faints into memory. This was first time, I would be doing rappelling, walk till now had silent and retrospective for me. At beginning, I was walking with friend made in local, after water patch had separated. It was insightful silent watchful walk, only few instants getting or extending support on uneven surface to each-other in the group. The ways through hills  are like ways through life, intriguing personal and impersonal simultaneously. In between, I started walking with a group singing songs – old melodies in most unusual of the places may have disturb some but it made my journey more relaxing and thoughtful.

Mentioning the above brief, was important as discussion with few of these people, which started at rappelling point continued till end of the trek and was in continuation of my deliberation about society and life in last few years. It also reminds me of few similar discussion at other unusual (may seem awkward places to many) places with people I had just met – like at Brighton beach, Humpi Badami trip or talks at UP election travel with strangers. The discussion engulfed the topics ranging from society, economics, spirituality and India vis-à-vis its spiritual traditions.

The rappelling may have been one of the most existing new things I may have done in couple of years. Though I was profusely sweating when reaching down, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Seeing sudden fall of 50 feet didn’t give as much thrill as rappelling it down. The next four rock patches till roping were I guess most difficult ones on the track. At second last of them one has to slip through cavity in the rocks and one drops down from hole below to ground below it. Thanks to shouts, we wouldn’t have found the hole in the rocks. Most of the tiring trail was covered, with only a roping point, once doing it was all smooth walk. However, majority of best scenic place had past too. Sun, shadow, walls and falls with breeze passing through the greens, make the ravine delight to eyes and mind.

Henceforth, the discussion developed, becoming more stimulating and insightful. By evening time we reached our resting site for night. Leaving our bags, most of us jumped in the pond in vicinity (I guess a small waterfall in monsoon), big water hole between the massive rocks. The way pond was laid out by nature, it seemed as much a wonder as the valley of shadows we had just passed. Pond had big rocks on three sides, in front a flat entrance side and rock bang opposite entrance side had feet long space above to sit or dive in deeper side. As others cooked dinner, the discussion picked up again till night sky was filled with start on a no moon night, Amavasya. The yesterday’s sky watching gave way to star gazing, (of course a new friend knew most about them, and was kind enough to share). After, school may be locate Orion, Sapt Rishi, Milky Way and lot many others till I fell to sleep.

In morning, it was swimming time again in the pond. It seemed private pool then as hardly anybody dared to get into water, maybe wrongly presuming it was cold or may be disinterested. For me it was more relaxing than the night sleep. After breakfast we started again for end base village and end of my weekend. It was a walk on relatively flat ground towards the Dehane village (Base of Ajoba fort) in Thane district. It seemed the valley, pool and nature were tempting one to stay back, and forget the tiredness. The descend, like spiraling down phase of life, too just leaves enjoyable memories and rest all would be a passing phase. Back to ground zero, we had Marathi lunch of peetla, bakri, kadi at a house in the village with friendly kids and got in jeeps to catch local. You can desire to get away from maddening life of concentrated human habitation, called cities, however to escape is different game altogether.

Still to visit: Harishchandragad peak, Aswala Fort, Bhairavgad Fort, Pabargad Fort, Ratangad, Alang –Madan-Kulang Fort, Kalsubai (5400 ft. highest peak in Maharashtra)
Travelogue 9 - Sandhan Valley Trek– February 8-10, 2013.

Ravindra Vikram Singh is an advocate practicing at various courts in Delhi. This blog as the title suggest soliloquy, is a monologue on this perception of drama of life and society. Views are personal.