Travelogue 9 – Velas-Turtle Breeding-Janjira-Murud– February 16-17, 2013

I was leaving for Idduki, Kerala next week for almost 15 days, therefore there was a huge temptation and advices from friend to stay at home this weekend and rest. However, back of my mind I was thinking if I don’t go to Velas then I could miss watching little olive riddle crawling to shore. Moreover, I was planning to stay in the village for a night that would make up for rest.

Till Friday, noon I was no sure where to take the bus from, in Maharashtra people usually reserved their bus tickets for long trips, which was new to me. I took from Mumbai Central a 00:30 AM bus, and slept as soon as after haggling conductor allowed me to sit in some seat in the back. Few hours on the road, I woke up when head had banged the handle of mirror on left. Bus was hopping from pothole to another, my was hit twice and paining, however as soon I opened the window, I could smell moist soil and very light drizzle may be first drizzle. The refreshing smell was conducive enough  to discourage one getting back to sleep, it’s been almost a year the smells was back, last time I was in UP, traveling Badaun around the election session.  Soon, I picked up Gandhi again, his observation 70-80 years back seems true even today, people struggling to keep afloat.

By the time dawn break, I had hurt my head again and it would pain for at least a week. The first rays of Sun serving reminder the bus was late bus, but presented the beauty of Konkan. Bus was slowly moving on the hills, sea on the left side, in between came Savitri River, emptying whatever it was with left in the sea. I wish I could just get down, sit there relish the poster portrait of nature.

I had missed the morning session of the turtle breeding, when all the new ones are collected and left near the shore to walk their way, I surveyed the crawling marks of mother turtle which had come last night and left its track. The harmful creatures comes, crawls, digs up a hole and lays eggs expecting cooperation from humans to not disturb them. However, we thinking mightiest of all have ruined our own life and theirs too. In Velas social organizations like Kasav Mita Mandal and Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra Manda have done great work for their natural habitat conservation and making local environmental friendly. To an extend now local host the visitors at their home.

   I stayed at Santosh Joshi’s place, small family, masi was really nice showed documents she had collected over the years about turtle breeding and their daughter was involved in the conservation work since class 4. In day I went around, the Velas once famous for Nana Phadnavis, went to rameshwar shiv temple and the farms of my host. One could smell mangos in the breeze as Haapos tree were laden with greens.  Also took dumdum (auto) to nearby village Bankot, near the sea coast it has an old depleted fort Shiva ji Empire.

In the evening, I hurried to the Velas beach to the watch the main attraction of my travel. The cordoned off area had huge crowded, recent popularity had drawn crowd from all over Maharashtra. Anyways it was sight to see six of the tittle ones with tender, slow find they own ways to crawl the sea, its light they seek and sea offers them that bright light.

I was appreciating the beauty and struggle of the little ones, suddenly heard a comment which just pinched me, a kid also vitnessig the event for first time asked his mother why turtle are walking at different speed why not all of them are as fast as the first one, the sick lady replied the faster turtle was good kid, like kids in school those do study and listen to their parent come first and rest are bad and weak. I do not know why I wrote, when I heard this I felt, for kid for all of us, make are children machines in rat race, teach them about fulfilling wants and desires, coming first at any cost and forget that the little of innocence/ignorance may keep us more human.

After watching with delight, life events of freshly hatched turtles, I walked with my newly made friends Murli and Johnson to the dongar (hill) adjust to sea and watch the sun dip at the end of the horizon in the sea.  

If the lunch was best meal in the week, dinner was no less, once again I was lucky to gorge one more new Marathi preparation koshabhi, I presume mix of other veg with tomato. Dinner followed a play and few videos at the Durga temple. Two family at arrived at host’s place, post dinner I went on walk the family of Sandeep bhai, enjoyed with their twin little girls, cute kids.

I had stayed back, one more session with little turtles. Woke up early, probably was one of the first visitor to reach the beach, serene splendor when sun rise in the back and one sit enjoying the waves, I sat there wrote few poems and waited for hatched turtle to come out of pit of sand to be dropped near the shore.  After getting the eyeful of the baby olive riddle, it was time to move.

I took the bus with visitor neighbors – Saurav, his wife (forgot her name) and Sitaram. Now on the list was Jangira, one famous spot on Konkan I had missed, however latter released its over rated. Got down at Vesvi to take a boat for Harihasreshwar with Saurav, Sitaram parted straight for Mumbai.

I dropped the family, at Harihasreshwar, telling them about impressive old shiva temple there gorge behind it. Carried on in dumdum to Srivardhan, from where I had to take bus to Dighi. Almost 1 hour of wait and nothing came, finally jumped in a truck to Dighi, few hundreds meter on the route, tired got punctured; I was already late and had just few maps to guide on unfrequented road to an unfamiliar town. Trucker was disinterested to carry on the journey till the new get the tire repaired, left with no choice waving at each vehicle passing by. My a motorbike stoped, Santosh Dombe, I should never forget you, as you took me next 30 kms to Rajpuri, telling me more places and temples of Shiva. From Dinge we took a boat, boat, me and Good Samaritan.     

In front of Rajpuri, stood the Janjira fort, one takes a sail boat with 50 people to reach the sea fort, i felt this was best part of this attraction. Fort has massive walls, however most the what guide say here are utter lies, therefore I roamed around alone, and was able to shoots in few of their lies too. First one was fort has one gate, it has too and other one is more tourist friendly and half of the construction they pass of as old is new, on can easily see iron rods and cement beams. Coming back on the boats was stirring and entertaining, met an old fellow who has a handicraft shop in front of regal Mumbai, takes all his staff for a one day monthly tour.

Good time, wrote and read a little, met nice people and enjoyed nature.

Travelogue 9 – Velas-Turtle Breeding-Janjira-Murud– February 16-17, 2013

Travelogue 7 - Ajanta, Ellora and Girsneswar - January 25-28, 2013

When I started this trip, I was not sure, how it would turn up. Budget constrain, wasn’t feeling best of in shape, busy work week and lastly, was wondering would it be just another history tour. Nevertheless, when one had to go, one has to go. The weekend trip itinerary had on the list Ajanta and Ellora Caves, Kailasnath Mandir, Girsneswar Jotyiling, Devigiri fort, and few other old monuments if time permits. I also wanted to visit nearby Gautala wildlife sanctuary; however time constrains couldn’t make it in plan. Moreover, I would have been uncomfortable seeing plight of forest and farmers due to less the average rain in this region of Maharashtra, this year.

As usual, we took late evening Friday bus to Aurangabad, in history titled as Devgriri. On the sideline, recently there was proposal to re-name it as Shamba ji nagar, the proposed move was defected due to incumbent central ruling party government favored the current name Aurangabad. It’s named after one of the last effective Moghul king Aurangzeb, after  he made this city - capital of his empire. He was infamous communal oppressive autocratic rule.

Reaching around after 12 hours, our cabbie Bhagwat picked us up. He was well informed and good company. Day 1 had on list: Ellora, Devgiri and Girneswar. Ellora is around 30 km from the city, famous for its Buddha, Jaina and Shiva Caves including Kaliasa Temple Complex (“one of the great monolithic structure in the world”) and Chaitya temple (from which todays chapels and cathedrals are supposed to be inspired from) thought to be constructed between 5^th and 13^th century. On the way near Ellora, there is old city, now town daultabad (dault-wealth), on the hill overlooking town stand impregnable (as of my friend called) Devgiri fort. From the bottom of the hill, fort seems crown on top of the hill, a formidable fort of a city once famous for its of wealth and rich society; then righty called as Devgiri (abode of gods); falling on ancient trade route of dakshinapatha.

4 km from there, are the Ellora structures, formally known as Elura, Verul and even Charanadari meaning “denizen of celestial region” for its scenic beauty. Roughly in the middle of the all caves stands the magnificent marvel Kailashnath temple. It took an hour, for the magnetic and astounding story of the temple to sink it. It is a single rock temple, made top to bottom front to end, from a mountain. No boulder was moved from distance, no external rock used. Sometime 1000 year back in history, they carved an artistic temple out of mountain. With intricate designs, double story, magnificent, yalli (tamil name), gopurams, panels depicting of Mahabharat & Ramayan, sculptures of Shiva and other others, it’s a sight one wonders if we are going back in time or just imagining it. Even to think about its construction, seems a herculean task. I climbed on the part of the hill above temple, for overwhelming bird eye view.

Experiencing reverberating sound of chanters in the Chaitya hall (cave number 10), makes the hill live one forget about the travel and place stop seeming old but functioning. The Mahayana and Hinayana caves with darpalas, padampani, varjapani, tara and other sculptures, belittle todays achievement of progress. The Jaina caves – one is a mandir known as chota kailasha. The caves have intricately carved idols of gods and goddess, and Tirthankars. One of the most noticeable is seated Mahavir attended by yakshas and yakshis. There Ellora caves are attributed kings -Krishan I, Rastrakutak king –Dantidurga, Calkuyas of Badami, however to me there seems no conclusive proof of time of construction and the reigning kings objectively.  

In the evening, after completing the group of monuments, we went for dinner at a restaurant Virandaban recommended by Bhagwat. The place had best thali, I have ever head after coming to Mumbai.

Next stop was evening darshan at Girneswar Jyotilink. The mystic place of Shiva has a dress code, males can enter garbha grah only shirtless, precisely topless. All the days travel and tiredness disappeared sitting in the temple premise, calmness and peace prevailed over worrisome thoughts of mind time.

Day two it was Ajanta, around 100 kms from city, on the way, talking to locals and farmers, I released extend of loss suffered due to less than average of rain. Drying cotton plants were standing in the field with no cotton. The forest wore a worn out demeanor. Usually at this time of the year, water is receding in the seasonal water bodies, cultivators fields are blossoming and forest is green, however this year all were facing adversity and our big metropolitans were not even talking about it, too lost in their own agendas. By the way, two handicrafts from the region are Paithani and Himroo.

Group of rock cut caves at Ajanta are dedicated to Buddha, the enlightened one. Even the bus ride from parking to caves suggests that we are going back in time traveling in the serene natural beauty, one is bound to contemplate. Lost in jangles and mountains, the first view of caves is breathtaking. Out of nowhere, one sees caves after caves along the hills with a corridor and below now seasonal river Waghore, and a waterfall Satkund (dry when I visited).  Once upon a time, rock cut caves (viharas- monasteries) were used as rain shelters for monks in the mountain. The first of mural painted caves are estimated have been constructed around 2^nd B.C. In early 19^th century a Britisher hunting for lion, who has itched his name on painting on the pillar, accidently discovered these lost caves. Just for FYI, there are no lions in the forest now.

Paintings depict events in life of Buddha, and only personal experience of being there can make one understand the artistic, spiritual and architectural depth of these monuments. My best three are a painting of Buddha in yellow robe (cave-17, tried clinking it number of times, however could not get on camera what my eyes experienced),   sculpture of Buddha lying in one of the last caves (it was calm and smiling –as asking you purpose of life) and equality of sexes so common to historic Hindu art and culture which we find missing in today’s world.

Described many time as second to none, in these monuments are paintings more than a millennium old, staring at you from all dimensions, not asking you for attention but understanding of society, life and history. What must have gone wrong and what is still to be resolved.

In the evening after dinner and chat with friends at a restaurant Windsor castle. I was wishing to have spent at least day more here, visiting the national park, Pitalhora caves (40 km away from city), two caves in the city of Laxmi and Ganesh in the city and spent more time with around there city. However office calls, monthly bills have to paid: P

The last minute in city was most dramatic, in the conversation with friends we missed our bus. By the time we released it, taxi was gone. We had to take auto till next stop of the bus and ask bus to slow down.

Travelogue 7 - Ajanta Ellora and Girsneswar - January 25-28, 2013

Travelogue 9 - Sandhan Valley Trek– February 8-10, 2013

Personally, hill walking is like introspection and Sandhan valley trek was one of the best experiences till date. The trek was descending through the greatest canyon in Maharashtra, only of its kind I have ever been to. It has a beautiful path with iridescent shades and shadows of mountains running on the side, short walks in knee deep waters, spots where your eyes just want to absorb the beauty, but cautioning to watch ones steps. I couldn’t help comparing it with life, while moving through depressing downhill turn, can suddenly slip away. Everything else is exciting around you; however, life is testing you at every turn - flinging the worst it can – coercing you to turn away. The path was sliding gradually for miles to ground level, negotiating way through rough rock patches. It had rappelling, hopping over rocks, however, with enough time for deliberations, star gazing at night, swim in natural pool and napping under the sky. Drawing a parallel to my life, after MBA my social venture went bust and brought me to ground zero costing a year and half among other things, but at the end life seems beautiful with or without  complaints.

It was very last minute plan; busy week had ensured no time to plan for the weekend. I knew I had escape from Mumbai for two days, didn’t know where. On the Friday noon, a friend goggled TMI, a group leaving late night for some Sandhan valley trek and luckily had space for few. At 7 o’clock I called them, doing last round of query, still to finalize between the option of trekking  Harishchandragad peak by ourselves, one I was longing to go for some time now or this descend we had just googled and saw some snaps . We decided to decide after reaching a Ghatkopar station, least common denominator for both destinations. We left for dinner around 9, packing the bags after buying new pair of shoes; old ones had ended their support on the last trip to Naneghat Jivdhan.

On station we met few people from the same group, we all boarded 11:17 PM local to Kasara. At Kasara we joined rest of TMI group and finally knew were we were going (still joining the group I was nt sure where I was going…lol). It was a group of 30 individuals from different walks of life; all struck a formal friendly chord instantly. This was first time I was traveling with an unknown organized group. Around 2:30 AM we boarded local jeeps from Kasara to Samrad village (3000 fts above sea level). Reaching there around 5 AM, while rest of group decided to sleep, three of us went for late night stroll. Few miles from village, lying on the rocks by country roadside with silhouette of mountain at a distance in front, sky watching – saw few shooting stars, slice like moon hidden behind some hill. It was worth skipping the sleep, I had already started enjoying the place. About 7:30, we started descend, after having breakfast of PoranPoli, chapatti made with jaggery – Marathi special.

Sandhan valley is situated in the Sahyadri, Western Ghats, near Samrad village in Nagar District near Ratangad peak. Few minutes in the canyon/ gorge, it becomes clear why it’s called valley of shadows. Valley of Shadows is surrounded by Alang, Malang, Kulang, Kalsubai, Ratangad and Ajoba peaks, at some places has just few feet of space to walk and sun rays fail to touch ground between the natural walls of mountains. It’s a water carved ravine two km (approx) long and 50 to 400 feet deep, with few water filled patches, making sure it drenches you waist deep.

Gradually place sinks in, if rocks make the knees crack and shadows of the mountain with each step promise eyes the more magnificent views. As soon as you start enjoying the trail, spot comes where the way forward is walking through waist deep water. Out of water, drained energy makes you forget about drenched cloths. Before one reaches the sudden fall of 50 feet (rappelling point); the walk through water faints into memory. This was first time, I would be doing rappelling, walk till now had silent and retrospective for me. At beginning, I was walking with friend made in local, after water patch had separated. It was insightful silent watchful walk, only few instants getting or extending support on uneven surface to each-other in the group. The ways through hills  are like ways through life, intriguing personal and impersonal simultaneously. In between, I started walking with a group singing songs – old melodies in most unusual of the places may have disturb some but it made my journey more relaxing and thoughtful.

Mentioning the above brief, was important as discussion with few of these people, which started at rappelling point continued till end of the trek and was in continuation of my deliberation about society and life in last few years. It also reminds me of few similar discussion at other unusual (may seem awkward places to many) places with people I had just met – like at Brighton beach, Humpi Badami trip or talks at UP election travel with strangers. The discussion engulfed the topics ranging from society, economics, spirituality and India vis-à-vis its spiritual traditions.

The rappelling may have been one of the most existing new things I may have done in couple of years. Though I was profusely sweating when reaching down, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Seeing sudden fall of 50 feet didn’t give as much thrill as rappelling it down. The next four rock patches till roping were I guess most difficult ones on the track. At second last of them one has to slip through cavity in the rocks and one drops down from hole below to ground below it. Thanks to shouts, we wouldn’t have found the hole in the rocks. Most of the tiring trail was covered, with only a roping point, once doing it was all smooth walk. However, majority of best scenic place had past too. Sun, shadow, walls and falls with breeze passing through the greens, make the ravine delight to eyes and mind.

Henceforth, the discussion developed, becoming more stimulating and insightful. By evening time we reached our resting site for night. Leaving our bags, most of us jumped in the pond in vicinity (I guess a small waterfall in monsoon), big water hole between the massive rocks. The way pond was laid out by nature, it seemed as much a wonder as the valley of shadows we had just passed. Pond had big rocks on three sides, in front a flat entrance side and rock bang opposite entrance side had feet long space above to sit or dive in deeper side. As others cooked dinner, the discussion picked up again till night sky was filled with start on a no moon night, Amavasya. The yesterday’s sky watching gave way to star gazing, (of course a new friend knew most about them, and was kind enough to share). After, school may be locate Orion, Sapt Rishi, Milky Way and lot many others till I fell to sleep.

In morning, it was swimming time again in the pond. It seemed private pool then as hardly anybody dared to get into water, maybe wrongly presuming it was cold or may be disinterested. For me it was more relaxing than the night sleep. After breakfast we started again for end base village and end of my weekend. It was a walk on relatively flat ground towards the Dehane village (Base of Ajoba fort) in Thane district. It seemed the valley, pool and nature were tempting one to stay back, and forget the tiredness. The descend, like spiraling down phase of life, too just leaves enjoyable memories and rest all would be a passing phase. Back to ground zero, we had Marathi lunch of peetla, bakri, kadi at a house in the village with friendly kids and got in jeeps to catch local. You can desire to get away from maddening life of concentrated human habitation, called cities, however to escape is different game altogether.

Still to visit: Harishchandragad peak, Aswala Fort, Bhairavgad Fort, Pabargad Fort, Ratangad, Alang –Madan-Kulang Fort, Kalsubai (5400 ft. highest peak in Maharashtra)

Travelogue 9 - Sandhan Valley Trek– February 8-10, 2013.